The timeless appeal of Britain’s original fast food, Cooper8 offers a glimpse into the design and heritage of traditional pie and mash shops.
As design consultants in the catering industry, we’re deeply interested in all aspects of hospitality. And what better to spark one’s imagination than with London’s original fast food? so here’s a glimpse into traditional British pie and mash – a history that predates the likes of Wimpy and McDonald’s, giving us an early example of a menu built around simplicity, speed, and satisfaction.
With a menu as straightforward as it is iconic – pies, mash, stewed or jellied eels, and the famous “liquor” made from eel and potato water with plenty of chopped parsley – pie and mash is a cuisine rooted in local ingredients. Back in the day, these ingredients came from sources like the Thames’ sharp-nosed eels, potatoes and parsley from Borough Market, meat from Smithfield’s, and flour from London’s own Wrights flour meal (read more about the fascinating history of the Wrights flour mill here). A quality meal with minimal air miles!
The shops themselves are masterpieces in efficiency and character. Counters were streamlined to serve customers in under 30 seconds before they helped themselves to cutlery and took a seat at communal tables or booth seating (we’ve seen this communal style make a significant and welcome comeback recently, but that’s a topic for another time). Everything about pie and mash is designed for efficiency – even the ovens, originally they would have been custom-made by local bricklayers and fired using wood or coal with stone floors for thermal mass and efficient heat recovery (stone base is still a feature today for some ovens) – ideal for batch pie baking. This efficiency has only improved with new technologies and innovations in cooking, reheating and delivery…. Now, thanks to suppliers like Manze and Arments, you can have this mouth-watering meal delivered to you anywhere in the UK.
Still, we encourage everyone to experience pie and mash in its traditional café setting; there’s nothing quite like it. For our art consultant, pie and mash is more than just design details – it’s a cherished memory:
“Pie and mash was a regular Saturday tradition for my grandmother after a drink at the Albert in Brixton. The pie, made from minced beef with rich gravy and flaky pastry (all the better if slightly burned), came with a dollop of mashed potato and a generous pour of green parsley liquor. The ritual was to turn the pie over to show its belly, using a spoon and fork (never a knife) to expose the deep brown steaming filling into the fluorescent green liquor, all doused with chilli vinegar.
The shop itself had a Victorian tiled floor and enormous mirrors that made it feel like an eternal palace. The high counter down the left led to a magical kitchen, where a man in a white coat and pie hat, with enormous arms, carried out trays of steaming pies. I remember the marble-topped tables, the church pew seating, and tables topped with salt, white pepper, and two types of vinegar, one laced with chillies.
Later, I had the chance to take a group of Italian business students there to give them a slice of British culture. They eyed the green liquor with a bit of hesitation at first, but by the end, they were completely hooked. For me, it was a proud moment – sharing the simple, hearty food I grew up with, almost like introducing them to a uniquely English version of fine dining”
The iconic aesthetic of the traditional pie and mash shops pulls the whole experience together. Grounded in simplicity, practicality and no-frills working-class charm, these interiors are rooted in Victorian London.
Green and white tiled walls give a clean, classic feel (also practical for ease of cleaning and hygiene) and in todays world, give a vintage atmosphere. Marble countertops, often paired with wooden booth seating add to the clean, simple feel and encourage customer interaction whilst maximising the space. Large mirrors give the illusion of space, adding a sense of elegance to an otherwise industrial space (they also allow customers to see each other, adding to the sense of community… a simple design trick to enhance communal vibes in dining areas). Natural light, simple fixtures, modest décor, straightforward signage. And there you have it. The simple, yet effective recipe for a traditional pie and mash shop design.
For us, the timeless charm of pie and mash shops lies in their authentic design – functional, honest, and rooted in community. These spaces have a distinct character that has stood the test of time. Pie and mash shops are a great example of how design can create places that feel both historical and timeless, embodying a sense of place that remains relevant and loved through generations.